4/20/2021 0 Comments Thrustmaster T300 Control Panel
I then used LUT Generator to setup gain settings for even FFB feel.I have T3PA Pro pedals with Ricmotech Load Cell mod so i switched the in game Brake Gamma to 1.0, which is linear.After you use LUT Generator you should stay away from the Advanced tab in Assetto Corsa because it will undo the settings.
Thrustmaster T300 Control Panel Generator To Setup![]() If you want to try to make the repairs on your own, follow these basic steps: 1. I had some issues with my T300 wheel(base) and TM wasnt able to find it reproduce it. So id like to share my knowledge, after the warrenty expired i was able to open the wheel. Have a look when you have one off the below symptoms: Controller Disconnected or Loss of FFB When you have the Controller Disconnected message, most likely the light on the base is off. TM suggests you have a look at the power cord, that the powercord is well plugged in. But when it is actually firmly plugged in for sure, and you still have the problems Then there are two problems i know off what might cause the misery. This voltage from the PCB is also applied to a triac within the power transformer. FROM the PCB) 2 When the mainscord is plugged in (both sides offcourse), the powertranformer has power, through the Triac. VDC USB voltage, see orange circle), the 12VDC voltage from the transformer is supplied TO the PCB (see Blue circle). Cause 1: It might be something with the triac, and theres a video on Youtube who explains this nicely, so theres no need for me to go in to that. But it might differ from model to model) LINK. Cause 2: I had to open the T300 chassis connector. Green arrow): Loosen the two screws in the green circle, and get the Chassis connector out. Open the connector. When i had the connector open, i was able to spot a problem quite easilly (See image) it was a bad mains soldering, see orange cicle, on the picture below: See the black burned part When i resoldered this mains lead (also did the others just to be sure) my problems were gone. And till now, no more disconnects, and i am able to use a higher FFB setting aswell. Mine is behaving nicely for the past while, but Ive been through several of them (luckily good store warranty for easy exchange). Every now and then, something disconnects or resets, but its so infrequent now. I kinda expect it to conk out and if it does will not be under warranty anymore. Get a desoldering tool and desolder all those connections and re-solder them properly. Its a good thing that they are only wires, unlike electronic components. Afterwards, be sure to eat the pins, donuts and wires so the new solder melt when touching those metal part. If theyre not heated enough, youll end up with the same joint you have now. The red wire has obvious non-wetting, too much solder, burned pwb, over-heated insulation, and general non-shinny solder indicating over-heating. I would say that the worker probably did not add solder to the wire leads prior to trying to mate the wires to the pwb. Then tried to no avail to get the solder to flow, but couldnt. So, instead of finding out why, they just piled on more solder and heat until it went all wrong.
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